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Tree Pruning and trimming |
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Tree Fertilization |
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Stump Removal and Stump Grinding |
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Plant Health Care |
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Tree Removal (including emergencies) |
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Landscape Mulch Delivery |
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Planned Maintenance |
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Insurance Appraisals |
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Tree Hazard Assessments |
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Tree reselling |
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Landscaping and debris removal |
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Complete Tree Services |
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| Frequently Asked Questions |
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| Please click on Question |
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| Q. Why should I invest in Tree Care? |
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| A. Properly maintained trees enhance the real estate value of your home or business up to 20 percent! Many successful developers now recognize the value of large trees and have abandoned planting saplings. To increase "curb appeal," they plant three-to-four-inch diameter trees at a labor cost of $75 to $100 each rather than $35 to $50 for a small tree. |
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| Q. Can I protect my tree from storm damage? |
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| A. Professional tree pruning successfully reduces a tree's resistance to wind movement through the crown. Another tip: cabling and bracing individual limbs, or even entire trees, can provide additional structural strength. |
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| Q. What is pruning a tree? |
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| A. Pruning is the cutting or removing branches or parts of trees or for improving the shape or growth of trees. This is the most common tree maintenance procedure. Usually, trees are pruned preventative or as a corrective measure to remove dead branches, crowded or rubbing limbs, eliminate hazards, and increase light and air penetration. Since each cut to a tree has the potential to change the growth, it is important to educate yourself, considering no branch should be removed without any reason. |
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| Q. How do I prune a tree? |
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| A. The best time to prune deciduous (or hardwood) trees is when they are dormant. On some flowering trees you may want to prune right after flowering. Conifers may be pruned any time of year, but pruning during the dormant season may minimize sap and resin flow from cut branches. Again, when the job is too big, it´s time to hire a Certified Arborist. And, if the tree is growing in a tree lawn, that area between the sidewalk and the street, you should check with your city to see what regulations govern pruning in this right-of-way. |
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| Q. Is my tree sick? |
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| A. Does your tree display one of the signs of root decay -- mushrooms growing from the base or under its canopy? Does the tree show warning signs of structural instability -- cracks in the trunk or major limbs, hollow and decayed areas, or the presence of extensive dead wood? |
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| Q. Do bugs harm my tree? |
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| A. First, identify the bug. Call us and we can try to help you. Then analyze the situation. For example, some people think that carpenter ants harm a tree, but in reality, since carpenter ants live in dead decaying tree sections, they may be warning you of a potentially hazardous condition. |
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| Q. What should I do if I think my tree has insect and/or disease problems? |
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| A. As soon as you notice any abnormality in your tree’s appearance, you should begin a careful examination of the problem. Insects and diseases can threaten a tree’s health. By identifying the specific symptoms of damage and understanding the causes, you may be able to diagnose the problem and take appropriate actions for treatment. You should contact a tree care professional for assistance immediately. |
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| Q. What is mulching? |
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| A. Mulches are materials placed over the soil surface to maintain moisture. Mulching is extremely beneficial to trees. It can reduce water loss from soil, minimize weed competition, and improve soil structure. Properly applied, mulch gives landscapes a health dose of benefits for your trees. |
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| Q. What is topping a tree? |
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| A. Topping is the indiscriminate cutting of tree branches to stubs or lateral branches that are not large enough to assume the terminal role. Other names for topping including “heading,” “tipping,” “hat-racking,” and “rounding over.” |
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| Topping is perhaps the most harmful tree pruning practice known. It is usually done to reduce the size of a tree. Often, homeowners top their trees because they feel that they have become too large for their property and are a hazard. However, topping will make a tree more hazardous in the long term and is very harmful to the health of a tree. |
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| Q. How should I plant my tree? |
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| A. Location conditions are extremely important and vital to a tree’s health. Be sure to examine the tree location conditions and follow these steps when planting your new tree: |
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Dig a shallow, broad hole: only as deep at the root ball, but 3x’s as wide in diameter |
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Identify the trunk flare: this is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This should be partly visible after planting. |
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Place the tree at the proper height: majority of the roots should be within 12” of the soil. |
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Straighten the tree in the hole |
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Fill hole, gently but firmly |
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Stake the tree, if necessary |
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Mulch the base of the tree |
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Maintain with follow-up care |
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| Q. How can I grow healthy trees? |
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| A. Here are six easy ways to have the best looking trees in your neighborhood: |
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1. Plant the right tree in the right place. Dogwoods don't belong in full sun, Douglas-fir shouldn't be planted under the powerlines.
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2. Water and mulch newly planted trees. Mulch with a ring of woodchips extending out 2 feet from the base of the tree.
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3. Protect trees from mowers, weedeaters, and other equipment. Avoid growing grass right up to the base of the tree.
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4. The soil should be firm around the trunk, but don't pack the soil tightly when planting. Mulch around the tree to avoid soil compaction and root suffocation. Leave roots alone.
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5. Prune according to accepted methods. Hire an arborist when the job is too big.
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6. If you think a tree needs to be topped, you might be better off cutting the tree down and planting a smaller variety.
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| Q. How often should I fertilize my trees? |
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| A. We recommend you deep-root fertilize your trees every 2 to 3 years. However, trees that are not in good health may need to be fertilized more frequently. To get more information on tree care, please contact us. |
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